Thursday, April 3, 2014

Ephesus

Thursday, April 3rd, 2014, Selcuk
 This is our breakfast room at Homeros Pension. This place has serious Turkish atmosphere. Our room has antique carved wooden beds and other furniture. They also serve a good Turkish breakfast. We could get used to this.
After breakfast we walked down to the bus station and paid 5 lira ($2.50) total for the two of us to take a dolmus (van) to the ancient city of Ephesus, about 3 km away. We had to wait about 10 minutes for the dolmus to fill up so we chatted with a Turkish man who lives in Holland and his Dutch partner. Fairly soon, we left in the dolmus and were quickly at Ephesus, the most complete ancient city in Europe, even though less than 20% of it has been uncovered.
The city site has been inhabited for at least 9,000 years but about 3,000 years ago was established as a Greek city. Typically in this area, the Romans came later and then the Byzantines followed by the Islamic Turks. At one time, this was the most important city in the Roman empire next to Rome. It is estimated that 250,000 people lived here. It was a port and accumulated massive wealth through trade. Unfortunately, the harbour silted in and the sea is now at least 5 km away. Both St. Paul and Cleopatra's youngest sister were murdered here. At one point of conflict, 80,000 citizens were murdered in one night. Busy place over the years.

 The great theater could hold 20,000 to 25,000 people to watch music, plays and gladiator spectacles.
 The Library of Celsus in the background was built in 114 AD and could hold 12,000 scrolls. At the time, it was the 3rd largest library in the known western world.
Anita sitting on the library steps.
Naturally, the Ephesians had extensive sewer and water infrastructure and public latrines.
 The streets paved with marble led through the city and down to the harbour, which is now a field. After a few hours, we walked back down to the lower gate area and ate our fruit and cheese in the shade while sitting on 2,000 year old carved stones. It's in the low 20s C in the shade but in the sun it's warm. We can't imagine touring here in the summer. It would be too brutally hot. There are signs around the site with the ambulance emergency number. There must be quite a few tourists who get heat exhaustion every summer.
We decided to walk the 3 km back to Selcuk past all the orchards in bloom. Yesterday on the bus ride here, we passed many orange groves with lots of oranges ready to be picked. Other fruits are just blooming.
 As we neared Selcuk, we could see Ayasuluk Fortress up on the hill a couple of blocks from our pension. We'll go there tomorrow or the next day.
 After some cold beer on the roof terrace, we went downtown and ate at Ejder Restaurant on one of the pedestrian streets right by the old Roman acqueduct. Another good meal reasonably priced.
There are lots of storks nesting on top of the acqueduct pillars.
We'll have an early night tonight and tomorrow our first stop will be the Ephesus museum just down the hill from here. It's supposed to be worth visiting.

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