Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Rooftop Dinner at the Panorama Guest House

Across the lake from our guesthouse is the main part of Udaipur. From our room we can see and hear what goes on at a small Hindu temple there. It's next to one of the old havelis or mansions that are in abundance here. We've decided that it's a good thing that Hinduism is hereditary. They wouldn't get many converts with the bells and drumming. It's not as bad as the full volume Asian pop we've heard in Vietnam but it's not really melodious either.
From the rooftop restaurant here, we can see across the lake to the massive City Palace. The many maharajahs (kings) of Rajasthan in their various small kingdoms were fond of building palaces but weren't so big on social programs. In the time of the British Raj (rule), the maharajahs were allowed to keep administering their little kingdoms and living off the taxes in exchange for their allegiance. After independence in 1947, they received a generous stipend from the government for the same reason. In the 1970s Indira Gandhi abolished their allowances so now they're either impoverished, make a living somehow or they charge admission to a large part of their castles and live in luxury in the rest.
It seems that people here accept their lot in life so no-one resents those who have it easier. The caste system, at least in rural Rajasthan, still seems to prevail. If you were born into a lower caste, that's because of your karma or misdeeds in a previous life. It's up to you to work your way up the ladder by leading an exemplary life. At least in the countryside, arranged marriages of very young girls and doweries paid to the groom's family  are apparently still the norm. If you marry outside your caste or religion, it's perfectly legal but your family might disown you. We've also read that the literacy rate outside the big cities is around 50% for females. This is changing but the change is very slow in rural areas.
Just before dusk, we enjoyed a great meal on the rooftop. The food was really good and the view was amazing as darkness fell and the lights of the palace came on. After dark, we came into the restaurant where every night at 7 pm they screen the James Bond film "Octopussy" that was primarily shot here in Udaipur. We could only watch for a little over an hour before we were too tired and had to go to bed.
Unfortunately, Anita had been feeling a little queasy for a week or so and last night Delhi Belly hit her hard. I was suffering a bit too but at least I slept on and off, except for the barking dog next door. (The sign on the gate says, "Bevair of Dog"). Then at daybreak, the ladies washing clothes in the lake start beating them on the steps between rinses, so we can hear that distant drumming all day.
Today, we've had a cup of tea and water with electrolytes but no food. We haven't left the hotel at all. Luckily, we have a decent place to relax and get well.








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