To get to Machu Picchu Pueblo from Cusco, it is necessary to take a minivan ("collectivo") or taxi for 2 hours from Cusco to Ollantaytambo train station. From there the train takes about another 2 hours to get to Machu Picchu Pueblo, about 8 km down in the river valley below the famous Inca site.
We weren't sure how long it would take to get a collectivo so we were in the breakfast room by 6:15. The night desk clerk was still there and he allowed us to make our own breakfast. The day clerk came in at 6:30 and made sure everything was okay. We stored our big packs in the water heater closet and set off up the alley with our day packs crammed with gear to suit any weather for the next 3 days.
When we got out to a bigger road it wasn't long before a taxi came along and, for 4 soles, took us to the street where the collectivos gather. As soon as we got out of the taxi, there were collectivo drivers running and shouting at us and at each other, trying to get us into their van. The first young guy who spoke to us seemed reasonable and offered us a ride to Ollantaytambo for 15 soles each (about $6). We agreed and he led us, not to a van, but to his car. We got in with some hesitations and in a few moments he had another passenger lined up, a young Peruvian hotel management student. As the driver looked for a 4th passenger, the 3 of us in the car agreed that we would pay 20 soles each so we could leave right away and the driver would still get 60 soles for the trip.
Off we went through the narrow streets of Cusco and finally got out on the open road. We had fun chatting with the student, who spoke good English and had worked at Disney's Epcot Centre in Florida. He was going to do a study of Machu Picchu hotels for his university program. He helped interpret for us when we spoke to the driver. The Sacred Valley going to Ollantaytambo is very pastoral. It's only near the end that the valley narrowed between steep mountains. We passed close to a couple of other less famous Inca sites that we wanted to see on the way back. When we asked the student if it was possible to hire a taxi to see such sites and then drive us back to Cusco for a reasonable price, he asked Elvit, our driver. In the end, for $40 US, Elvit agreed to pick us up on Monday from our hotel in Ollantaytambo, drive us to Moray and Salinas, wait for us at each site and then drive us to our hotel in Cusco. We were all happy with the plan.
At the Ollantaytambo train station, we waited about an hour and then boarded the Vistadome train. If it hadn't been for the 1/2 price deal, we would never have paid for the upgrade. However, it was great. We had comfortable seats with a table on the other side of which 2 other passengers faced us. They were a couple from near Washington DC who both worked for Lockheed Martin. As we talked during the 2 hour trip, they rolled their eyes about Donald Trump. Sadly, the only Canadian politician they knew was Rob Ford. It was a beautiful trip along the Urubamba River valley between the steep mountains while we ate a light breakfast and sipped coffee and tea, all very nicely served.
When we arrived, it didn't take us too long to find the Adelas Hotel where we would be staying. We got checked in and set off to wander the town. It's very small and there only to serve tourists going to Machu Picchu. Near the train tracks, the restaurants are expensive. We walked further up the hill and ran the gauntlet between countless restaurant hawkers trying to lure us in. Finally, we picked one for an early dinner. For 20 soles ($8), we sat on a little patio and had 4 pisco sours. It was happy hour all day, every day. For another 15 soles each ($6), we had the menu of the day which was quite good and filling. It pays to comparison shop.
Once again we were very tired and were in bed early because we wanted to get an early start up to Machu Picchu to avoid the day tourists arriving from Cusco by mid morning. The trains ran right under our hotel window. Apparently trains passed by at 11 pm and at 1 am but I didn't even hear them.
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