Sevilla Cathedral

Yesterday morning, Thursday November 15th, we decided that once we saw the Sevilla Cathedral, which is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and the 3rd largest cathedral overall after St Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s in London, we wouldn’t need to see any more cathedrals on this trip. In Granada, Córdoba and now Sevilla, we have stayed in little hotels in the old (usually formerly Jewish) quarter of the city. It’s been great. We had been planning to go to Cadiz and then the southern port of Tarifa where we could take a ferry to Morocco. However, we have decided that we don’t need to see any more old neighbourhoods in old cities anymore this trip. We just don’t think we’ll see anything much different or better in Cadiz, Tarifa or, for that matter, in Asilah or Chefchaouen, the towns we’d planned to visit in Morocco.
Since we’re loving Sevilla, we booked 2 more nights in this hotel. Oddly enough, it’s cheaper to do that online through booking.com than it is to book at the front desk. We got all that organized and cancelled our reservations in Cadiz and Tarifa. From here we’re going straight to Ronda, a little hill town, for 2 nights. Then we’ll go to the Costa del Sol somewhere, rent an apartment and from there take a day trip to Gibraltar. Other than that we’ll just hang out in some beach town and enjoy the sun and tapas. We both felt there was something wrong with our plan so we fixed it. Spending 6 nights instead of 4 in Sevilla feels right.
At 11 am, we walked down to the Cathedral when it opened. The line to get in was so long that we decided to try later in the day. There’s a tourist information office near the Cathedral so we went in to inquire about how to get bus tickets to Ronda for next Tuesday. I had checked online and it seemed like the Prado de San Sebastián bus station was the place to go. However, the tourist info lady told us to walk 15 minutes to the Plaza de Armas bus station, which is the one we had come to from Córdoba. After a 25 minute walk along the river, we got there. The bus ticket lady told us that we had the wrong station and to go back to the Prado de San Sebastián. Good to know.
At least on the way back we found a mini-market where we bought nuts, oranges and beer. Plus it was the hottest day yet so we enjoyed the heat and 26C temperature.
After a snack in our room, we went back to the Cathedral. It took only 5 minutes to get in. The Sevilla Cathedral is so massive and so filled with ornate artistry, it’s hard to believe. The altar piece, reputedly the largest in the world, is 65 feet high and 45 feet across, made up of carved wooden panels covered in gold leaf depicting the life of Jesus from birth until crucifixion.
In one corner is the coffin of Christopher Columbus held up by 4 kings. Yes, he’s really in there. They proved that with DNA testing in 2006, 500 years after he was interred.
The bell tower used to be a Muslim minaret. There is a spiral ramp that goes up 330 feet so armed guards could ride horses up 5 times a day to escort the muezzin as he performed the call to prayer. We walked up and were glad to finally get to the top.
When we had seen all there was to see in the Cathedral, we went back to the Bodega Santa Cruz near our hotel, where we had eaten the night before. It’s an experience. We noticed when we got back to the hotel that it’s recommended in both our guidebooks and is described as a “forever-crowded bodega where eating tapas becomes a physical contact sport”. That sounds about right. Great place.
Internet here is slow. We have lots of pictures but will put them in later.

Córdoba to Sevilla

On Wednesday, November 14th, we checked out of our hotel a little after 8 am and got a taxi (about 9 euros) to the bus station. Luckily, during the week it seems like bus travel is much less popular than on the weekends so we were able to get tickets on the 9:30 am bus to Sevilla for 12.50 euros each. The bus departures from Córdoba to Sevilla are much less frequent and the travel time is slower than the trains but buses are less than half the price. Still we were in Sevilla 2 hours later.
For 9 euros, we got a taxi to our hotel, La Abadia de la Giralda, just around the corner from the Sevilla Cathedral. After we checked in we walked just down the street to a little bodega where we ate a tapas lunch. The decor lets you know where you are. In Sevilla, bulls who put up a good fight are honoured by having their heads mounted on the walls of bars.
Sevilla is very pedestrian friendly so we spent the rest of the day wandering around and eventually stopping for more tapas and drinks at another bodega down the street.

Córdoba Archaeological Museum

On Tuesday, November 13th, we walked a couple of hundred metres to the Córdoba Archaeological Museum. We were running out of things that we really wanted to do in Córdoba so it seemed like a good way to learn a bit more about the area.
There is some evidence that humans have lived in Córdoba for at least 30,000 years. The museum is built over an old Roman amphitheatre, which has been partly excavated so visitors can walk through it. There were lots of artefacts from ancient Córdoba on display. It was an interesting morning.
We wandered around through the day and somehow forgot to have dinner until after 5 pm. Although we already were aware that this might be a mistake, the lesson was reinforced. From 1 pm to 4 or 5 pm, every bar and restaurant is hopping. After 5 most kitchens close and there is only a meagre selection of tapas available. Between 5 and 8 pm, don’t expect to eat.
Anyway, we stopped at 3 different little bars and sandwich shops, having a bite to eat or a drink at each one. In the end, it was actually kind of good. However, we did have to take whatever they had. At least we stayed out after the street lights came on.

The Mezquita

Today we just ate a breakfast of some of the snacks that Anita has accumulated along with coffee or tea made from hot water from the lobby carried up in our thermos.
It was raining lightly this morning. Yesterday was the warmest day we had had so far - about 21C and sunny in the afternoon.
Luckily we have our rain shells and umbrellas so a little rain doesn’t bother us. About 10 am we walked down to the Mezquita and bought our entrance tickets for 10 euros each.
Originally, the Visigoths built a Christian church on the Mezquita site in the 6th century. In the late 700s, the local Moorish leader bought the site and started construction on a mosque. Several additions were constructed over the next few centuries until, at over 14,000 square metres, it was the largest mosque in the world. The ceiling is only about 10 metres high, making a huge horizontal space. Originally there were over 1,200 slender columns with double arches for strength holding up the roof. Now, since the cathedral was built, 896 columns are left.  The forest of columns with red and white striped double stone arches is an impressive sight.
After the Reconquest, the Christians worshipped in the Mezquita for about 300 years without making many changes. However, around 1600 it was decided that a cathedral should be constructed right in the middle of the mosque. At least they didn’t tear the whole thing down, which was the case in many other places. It’s very strange to walk through a low ceilinged mosque, meant to be an intimate prayer space and suddenly enter a big cathedral with 130 foot ceilings, meant to be awe inspiring to people in the presence of God.
After a couple of hours in the Mezquita, we walked around searching out some restaurants. We stopped at the Santos bar across from the Mezquita to share a potato pastry tapa. It was just the right snack for only 2.30 euros. As we ate, we chatted with a couple of other tourists from Maine and Connecticut. When we said we were Canadians, they said “Sorry, we’d get rid of Trump if we could”. They think very highly of Trudeau, perhaps more than many Canadians do. This isn’t the first time we’ve heard these sentiments from travelling Americans. Most of them seem very embarrassed.
The afternoon was still cloudy but it’s not really cold - probably about 17C. We like a little restaurant down the street so much we went there again. We each chose one of the “menu del dia” options. For a big “stirred mushroom appetizer”, main course of meatballs or pork slices with deep fried potatoes and dessert of flan with whipped cream and chocolate, we each paid 10 euros. When we paid, we discovered that the price included the generous glasses of beer and white wine that we had too. Good deal.
Plus, in Spain there is little or no tipping. No smarmy waiter ever says, “Hi, I’ll be your server today”. All of the waiters are professionals who work on whatever needs to be done. Restaurants are run like any other business where the staff can expect to receive a wage that they can live on from the management. More of that attitude in Canada would be a good thing.
Until it started to get dark, we wandered through the narrow streets and then across the river and back on the Roman bridge. Now Anita is catching up on the laundry and I’m catching up on the bookkeeping so we’ll be ready for another day.

Flamenco Museum

Yesterday, Sunday November 11th, Remembrance Day, we slept late and had breakfast in our hotel. For 4.75 euros each it’s filling and okay but really not that good. We think that tomorrow we’ll just get pastries and a coffee for the addict at a little bakery down the street. We acknowledged Remembrance Day by looking online but there’s really no sign of it on the streets here. Maybe it’s because we’re in the tourist area.
We had no big plans for the day so we walked about 5 minutes up to the Flamenco Museum. We’re glad we did. It’s in an old inn that’s been there for hundreds of years and has a colourful past. It’s even mentioned in the story “Don Quixote”.
The museum has lots of interactive displays of flamenco guitar, vocal and dancing techniques. Trying to even match the rythms is extremely difficult. It was a fascinating morning.
In the afternoon we wandered over by the Mezquita, the big old mosque (now cathedral), where we’ll visit tomorrow. Near there was a sandwich shop with lots of ham that deserved a photo. Spaniards are big on smoked meats.
Finally, we had a late lunch, or early supper, on the patio of a neighbourhood restaurant and watched the world go by. After a short walk down to the old Roman bridge and the Triumphal Arch (which was never finished) to shake down lunch, we’re back in our room for the night. We’ve included a picture of our hotel lobby. Lots of character.

From Granada to Cordoba

Yesterday, Saturday November 10th, we had breakfast in our hotel, checked out and left for the bus stop about 9 am. We knew where to catch the number 33 city bus that, for 1.40 euros each, took us to the bus station. There we discovered that the 10:30 bus we planned to take was already full. We should have bought tickets in advance. The 11 am bus had many stops so it would take 4 hours to get to Córdoba. We decided on the noon bus that would only take 2 3/4 hours and would cost 15 euros each. So we had a bit of a wait.
Most of the bus terminal was cold so we eventually went into the cafeteria to wait. The weather here has been cooler than expected. Friday was the coldest day with a high of only 11C. Most days are 15 to 17 but the mornings are cool, especially since there’s so much shade in the narrow streets.
However, when we finally got going, the bus trip was quite pleasant on a 2 lane highway that is the most direct route to Córdoba. For the whole trip, we went through miles and miles of olive orchards. In the little town of Banea, in front of the church, there were sculptures of people harvesting olives. We also saw many small olive processing facilities. The whole economy here seems based on olives.
At the Córdoba bus station we got a taxi that cost us 8 euros to get us to our hotel. It’s a good thing too because we would never have found it on our own in this labyrinth of little streets. Our driver, in a small car, had to do a 3 point turn in some intersections and, if there was a pedestrian, he had to fold in his mirror not to hit the person or the wall.
We’re stayin in the “Antigua Convento” or Old Convent. It’s a little dark but it has tons of character. Our room is small but has about a 15 foot ceiling. The advertised balcony is more like a bay window that opens and has a little railing. However, the hotel is clean, secure and very well located. We’re a 5 or 10 minute walk from everywhere we might want to go.
After we got settled, we went down the street to a restaurant for a bite to eat and a wine and a beer. There are hundreds of bars and restaurants in the area that all serve lots of different tapas (small snacks), raciones (bigger portions), full meals, many different local wines, and beer. It’s hard to go wrong. Usually, it seems we spend about 17 to 25 euros ($25 to $38) to be well fed.
After we had eaten we walked along the river to the old Roman bridge where we listened to 2 really good flamenco guitarists busking.

Granada Cathedral and Royal Chapel

On Friday, November 9th, we walked across the Plaza bib Rambla and around the corner to the big cathedral. The 10 euro admission included an audio guide. The cathedral is massive. The altar has paintings of the life of Christ and Mary for the first few stories and then above that there are stained glass windows with more of the same images. Along each side of the cathedral are chapels dedicated to various saints. Although the audio guide doesn’t mention it, one of them depicts Saint James on horseback with his sword upraised while his horse stomps a Muslim Moor. The audio guide does point out a painting showing a celebration of the mass baptism of many Moors but fails to include the fact that the Moors had to either be baptized or hit the road. Like everywhere else we’ve been in the world, the peace, love and understanding of all religions has its limits.
The cathedral also has 2 huge ornate pipe organs. The artwork and craftsmanship of everything in the cathedral is very impressive.
After the cathedral, we visited the Royal Chapel alongside it. Commissioned by Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand, it isn’t huge but it’s very beautiful and not ornate to the point of being tacky. No photos were allowed because of all the old paintings by some of the medieval masters like Botticelli. We even descended a few steps into the crypt below the chapel to see the lead coffins containing the bodies of Isabel, Ferdinand, their daughter “Mad Juana” and her husband “Philip the Fair” along with a grandson, Michael. Apparently Juana was so consumed with jealousy over her handsome husband that it drove her mad. When he died young, she slept beside his coffin for the next 2 years. Nice but just a little creepy.
After our touring, we went back to the patio restaurant we liked for another early dinner (or late lunch here in Spain). We have yet to stay awake long enough to go to dinner with everyone else at 8 or 9 pm.